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It may cut... But will it keal?

There’s a company in Eastern Canada that produces tamarack/Larch end grain boards. It’s a dense softwood and their boards are sold worldwide

you're talking so fast I can't understand what you're saying. 0:46

I would have a lot of trepidation cutting something like chicken on that! Bread or veggies, you are probably okay!

I've watched a lot of your videos over the last year. You are one my go to's. Enjoy the variety. Boxes, jig saw, ect. Just watched the pine end grain video yesterday. This Video opened my eyes as to what one can do. You've come a long way in 3 years as we should. Enjoyed the jump cut a little more that 14 minutes into the video where the dominos appeared in the shelf ;) Thank you for all your effort.

Quick question from a newer woodworker. Are there treatment chemicals in a standard 2x4 that might raise some concerns?

I made matching end grain cutting boards from Southern Yellow Pine from a big box store and Cherry. My results are similar to Newton's. In the end, the pine showed marks a little more, but not enough anyone would care. No "pine taste" or any of the problems people caution about. Most people prefered the look of the pine over the cherry surprisingly. For testing, I drug a serrated steak knife over each surface 5,000 times.

Is it necessary to part up your 2x4 with a jig saw? Wouldn't it be slower with a butter knife?

As a serving tray. Great. As a cutting board, I would never eat your food. Plenty of others have already said why. However, the concepts are the same correct wood sources. You can make great concepts of this but cutting spf and just dying /staining them before gluing up to get the design you desire.

Great idea, I personally would make two, maybe even 3, one for fruit and veg, one for raw meat, and then one for cooked meat. I know I'm fussy, but I used to be in charge of a kitchen.

My wife's favourite chopping board is a small face grain pine one our daughter made 25 years ago. Its surface is concave now but it still gets a lot of use. It's light, small, thin and loved!

I made a cutting board out of pecan once. Within a month it looked like a wire brush was used on it.

End grain doesn't raise. All you do is fill the "straws" with water which will prevent deeper oil penetration...

Could the warping in the maple be from air dried instead of kiln dried? I’ve heard air dried can absorb moisture much more than kiln dried since the cells are kind of damaged after the high heat of a kiln?? Love to hear others thoughts

Well done, love the simplicity. I have made all of my boards out of hardwood. My next one will be pine like yours!

👍👍as usual! Thanks. JimE

That was very interesting and well done.

Thanks!

Funny you would pick this topic. I just used some doug fir to practice making end grain. I've only done 1 in the past and it didn't go well. Now I have a customer that wants a 18'' x 24'' x 2'' and I don't want to get all the way to the end and screw it up.

I made a 2x4 end grain board a few years ago. It came out great. the issue is years later even with proper care its warped. I think 2x4 is not dry enough from the store to work without warping. In the video he said he had it in his shop for months before using I think that's smart.

Is it really made from pine or are you using pine as a term for generic construction lumber? I ask because I live in the Pine Tree State and pine is expensive.

Another interesting test would have been (or would be if you added it) is the sharpness of a knife after use. A lot of people think end-grain cutting boards or bamboo are great, but they can be murder on a knife's edge. I've debated making a edge grain board or pine like here for that reason.

Pretty interesting experiment, Billy! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Any cutting-Board that passes the "Hummus test" is a good board

I appreciate the test that you have performed here, granted it's not a bulletproof one. With that said, I'm impressed. I have wondered for several years about making cutting boards out of pine/fir, but never put the thought to action. You, sir, have restarted that thought process, especially as how I work predominately with pine/fir wood. Thanks

Again great video. I do not make cutting boards but it was fun with good information to watch.

You deserve more followers! Great video!

Great video! I need a 34" long frame, and im trying to visualize how you made larger frames on this with the stop block only going back 20 some inches? Id rather not make an unyielding jig if i can help it haha. thank you!

Hey - if nothing else, this makes for low-cost practice! ✌🏻🎨☕️

The reason to use maple versus pine is that with heavy chopping and slicing, as with meat and chicken, the knife grooves in the maple are only going to be superficial as opposed to deeper cuts into the soft pine. Those deeper cuts harbor bacteria which are difficult to eliminate which is why restaurant codes effectively bar the use of any wood cutting boards in favor of artificial boards that do not sustain the same amount of damage. Moreover your knife skill are not those of an accomplished cook whose cuts would be much harder and more vigorous. As a woodworker and a cook I think you have created a board that would probably harbor more salmonella and other bacteria than I would be comfortable with. I'll stick to my hard maple boards.

I have had an end grain Larch wood cutting board that I have use every day for over 5 years and it has held up extremely well. Additionally, being a soft wood it is easier on your knife blades. I prefer it to any hardwood cutting board. If you compare non-end grain cutting boards, hard wood would hold up better but be much rougher on your knives, more resistant to the board being cut. The principle is that with end grain the knife blade is splitting between the fibers, as opposed to cutting across the grain, which would wear your blade down faster. Thus for every day use a softer end grain board would be best for your knives.

What about the resin and pitch in pine. Over time I think that will effect the taste of food you cut on it

Great video…. Showing beginners real word

I really enjoy your videos. I do have a degree from WORD POLICE UNIVERSITY. Using the words RAISE and UP together gets you a ticket from this sworn officer. Just say raise. We all do it. 😊

Love the humor. And honesty.

I hate to be that guy.... this looks great, BUT construction grade lumber (at least in AZ) is treated to repel bugs and water. Don't know if that's a safe board to "eat." Love your videos!

Is that a pine cutting board 😂

Thanks this was good information!

I would do 2 times more sanding and go up to 320 grid. Still looks awesome :)

Is it waterproof and will it protect the outside similar to polyurethane? I guess like a film finish

THIS MAN COOKED

Hey , that’s pretty cool. I was thinking the top could be plexi glass and you would have a better view . Awesome project 👍

Ohhh the tools! Drooling here

God, this guy is dumb. He has no idea what he is doing. His video is worthless. Who doesn't use a lathe fixed to something? What did he think was going to happen? He doesn't even know how to center a work piece on the chuck. He has no rest for the tool, no safety shield, etc. What a moron.

Fortune teller...foresees the future!

I just bought these plans and was disappointed to see that it doesn't actually list how much wood I'm supposed to buy. It just says to start by cutting 8 boards of each wood (I had no idea this project was going to be so expensive!!!), but doesn't say what dimensions of boards I need...nor does it say what I need to buy to make the thin strips. This was actually the main reason I bought the plans (and to support you) since I can see the process in this video.

how did you get the edge for the glass to sit on?

The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/newtonmakes3/

Good to know. Thanks

Nice tray... Where did you get the shaped rubber sanding forms??